Double time your moisture intake:
If your hair is desert dry and damaged you must moisturize it more often. Moisture escapes damaged hair easily due to splits, breaks and other trauma to the hair strand. Instead of adding moisture to your hair once per day add moisture before bed and in the morning. If your hair is severely damaged, apply moisture to your hair in the evening (4pm-5pm) when you get home from work or school as well. Qhemet Biologics Burdock Root Butter Cream and LUSH R&B Revive & Balance Hair Moisturizer are great moisturizers. If your hair is anything like mine, moisturizers that are water-based causes your hair to matte and tangle when applied on dry hair. I can only use water-based moisturizers after I wash my hair and its still wet so I use penetrating oils like coconut, avocado and olive oils in between washes.
Clarify your hair:
There are certain products that contain oils, pomades and conditioners that can build up and actually prevent your hair’s ability to hydrate. This is why it is important to remove stubborn buildup these products can cause. Many shampoos are sulfate-based but there are more sulfate-free products entering the market to accommodate sensitive scalps and hair. Clarifying shampoos like Carol’s Daughter Rosemary Mint Clarifying Shampoo washes away buildup from styling products without stripping away your natural moisture.
Search and destroy before every wash:
If you are consistently losing hair when you comb or style your hair it may be due to breakage caused by splitting ends. Split ends can break off on their own but you will be left with a damaged end. It is best to clip the end of the strand evenly yourself. The search and destroy method is simply examining the ends of your hair for split ends and clipping the strand individually. It is best to hold your ends in front of a white sheet of paper; the light, solid surface will aid you in finding the splits. Search and destroy at every wash until the number of split ends you have decrease dramatically. This will greatly contribute to your hair’s strength and health.
Use a reconstructor to deep condition:
A hair reconstructor is a specialized hair conditioner designed specifically to help severely damaged hair. What separates a hair reconstructor from a regular conditioner is its focus beyond simply moisturizing. Hair reconstructors fix breaks, cracks and weakened areas of the hair shaft with a combination of micro-proteins, macro-proteins and polymers. The ApHOGEE Treatment for Damaged Hair is an example of a hair reconstructor that must sit in the hair for a period of time to take effect. It then hardens and must be rinsed out according to directions. Giovanni’s Nutrafix Hair Reconstructor and As I Am Hydration Elation Intensive Conditioner are also an excellent products that can help your hair regain its health.
Apply product from root to tip:
Sometimes when applying a product to my hair, I will quickly rub it over my entire hair without focusing on each section. It is vital that every strand is receiving the product. Don’t just apply it to the top of your hair; divide your tresses and apply the moisturizer in the middle, underneath and from the roots to tips of your hair.
Seal your hair:
This is one step you should never skip. Sealing with an oil or butter product locks in moisture. It smoothes out the cuticle and keeps your hair moisturized for a longer period. Always use sealant on slightly dampened or misted hair, or pair the product with a water-based moisturizer to maximize the benefits. Jojoba oil and aragan oil are fantastic sealants. If your hair is severely damaged, it is best to use thick oils like castor oil and butters.
Styling your hair protectively:
Protective styles don’t make your hair grow but they do make it possible to prevent breakage since your hair may be breaking off faster than it grows. What protective styles actually do is keep your ends “protected.” A few examples of protective styles are buns/chignon, two strands twists, braids and weaves. I know it can be hard to wear protective styles because you can’t really have “fun” with your air. If you don’t like wearing your hair in protective styles consistently try the “3-4 routine”. I wear my hair in a protective style for 3 days (after washing like twists) and then take them down and wear my hair “out” for 4 days. This way I am able to enjoy my hair but keep it protected for a good amount of time as well.
Take a deep breath:
Think positive and stay confident. Keep in mind that this process of restoring your hair might take a while but remember it’s a work in progress. It’s kind of like working out. The first few weeks you can’t see the results but with every squat and repetition you’re getting more and more toned…then one day Bam! you’ll have those Kelly Rowland abs. Just make sure you are consistent and focus on your hair’s health daily. Even on those days when you’re dog tired *John Coffe voice* and you just want to fall asleep in your clothes; take 5 minutes to give your hair a little TLC. It will pay off!
Hi Chime….I am having the hardest time transitioning (I have had a relaxer for as long as I can remember), I think I am two or three months in, my roots are now maybe two inches long. Because I have different hair texture I am having a hard time styling it. I have seen lots of videos for relaxer transitioners, and they put gel in so the relaxed part can stay in the style. I have tried all this but I don’t know if I am doing it wrong or putting too much products in my hair, but when I do it over night it’s almost never dry the next morning and when I want take the twists out they are not really curly… so I am just kinda frustrated and discouraged. What would you recommend please?
You may want to try twisting your roots then pin curling your hair. This is what I had to do. It’s okay to use heat sometimes so you may want to try sitting under the dryer for 20 minutes before going to bed and it should be dry by the morning. If you can’t find anything to work you may want to experiment with braids. There are so many to try and it’s perfect for the summer. Then you won’t have to deal with your hair at all. Just make sure you condition and moisturize between installations.
Hi!!
So, I have began my natural journey this weekend and I have a couple questions I’m hoping you can answer because I am truly inspired by your hair.
Okay, so I have never had a perm in my life; I have only maintained my hair by getting it done bi-weekly (with a flat iron). I don’t believe it is essential for me to do a “chop”, but I am wondering how do I transition?
How often should I co-wash, shampoo, and when should I “seal” my hair with oils? Also, in between my co-wash, if I am retwisting or restyling my hair at night, do I add more products?
I would greatly appreciate your help
If you have been getting your hair flat ironed since birth you’ve likely damaged your true hair texture and/or curl pattern. In order to have a successful transition you must stop flat ironing your hair to allow your natural texture to grow in without being harmed by the heat. You can wear hairstyles like pin curls, rod sets, braids, etc. Any style that doesn’t require you to flat iron it. It’s up to you how often you want to wash your hair. Start off washing every two weeks and if you need to wash more often bring it down to a week or even shorter if your hair needs it. I co-wash every time I wash my hair except for when I feel like my hair needs a thorough cleansing. You can do this every 3 washes starting off but extend it longer if you can. Some women shampoo at every wash and you can do so if you don’t feel like your hair feels stiff or stripped after shampooing. You seal your hair with an oil after you wash it and add a moisturize or a leave-in conditioner. If you re-twist your hair you can add more products if needed for definition or if you need moisture. You should add oil or some type of conditioning product to your hair daily. It have to try different routines and techniques until you find what works best for your hair. Every few months snip a couple of inches off so you can gradually get rid of the hair that has been damaged by the heat. This way you can avoid a “big chop” all together. I hope this helps you out:)
Hi chime thsnks for yur other response I wanted ask I’m to cut yur hair does it have to be shears or can yu use them as long as their really sharp?? Also I’m having my HS graduation soon and I was wondering what style I should so since I don’t wanna straighten my hair yuve inspired me tobget away from the flatiron but instill have it tho I’m not brave enough to throw it out yet lol :)
Hey! I’m going to make a post about that today. Maybe it will help:)
Yay !! Thanks :) On YouTube or this site ??
Here on my blog.
Thanks I saw the styles their awesome!! I’m gonna do the flat twist one…I didn’t know if yu cld understand my question abt the scissors but I jus wanted to know is it mandatory to have shears or can they jus be really sharp?? Cuz it seems like I’m always cutting off my growth even when I wear low manipulation styles
You need to use scissors that are actual hair scissors and stainless steel. Don’t use them for any other purpose other than cutting your hair.
Hi chime thanks for your reply last time by the way it helped alot the oil has made a difference I wanted to ask how do yu feel about hair grease ?? And how do yu tell the difference between your natural curly texture and split ends ??
A split end is a divide at the end of the hair strand. The single strand splits into two at the very end. You are able to see your natural texture when you wash your hair and let it air dry without the use of any product or manipulation. Stay away from hair grease that contains petroleum and mineral oil. It has a tendency to clog your pores and isn’t really beneficial to the hair. There are natural hair greases that you can use…I prefer hair grease because it’s not runny like oils.
Hi Chime!
Do you have any recommendations for those with severe heat damage? I’ve been natural for about two years now but my hair is extremely damaged due to flat ironing. I’ve noticed in certain parts of my hair I’ve completely lost my natural curl pattern :(
Its very difficult to deal with especially when you hear about all of the cool techniques that I COULD be using to get a different look for my hair (such as a twist out) but can’t due to the damaged parts of my hair…it just doesn’t look consistent. I now use flexi-rods to get the curl I want to achieve (I also use them as a method to “train” my hair to curl back) but its very frustrating because in my opinion it looks a little too perfect and not natural. I’ve done treatments, I keep up with my trims and try to keep my hair moisturized but it seems nothing works to regain my natural pattern back. I’m not just talking about a half inch to inch of damage, I’m talking 4 to 5 inches of damage at the front and crown of my head….very noticeable. I’m thinking I may have to just be patient and wait for a new head of curly hair to grow in.
I’m on a mission to not only wear my hair natural but I am very concerned about its health. I used to have a very long healthy head of hair like yours and I would love to get that back!
I would appreciate any feedback, and thank you for inspiring people like myself who are on a natural hair journey.
Artavia
Thanks Artavia!:) Unfortunately, the only way to get rid of severe heat damage like you are describing is by cutting it. You can take your time and grow it out or get rid of it with one cut. It does suck because it takes so long but you’ll get there and have your curls back in no time.
This was really helpful thanks…but I do have a question my hair seems to be stiff I’ve been twisting it for about three weeks and using a curly cream leave in by cantu I haven’t straightened In a while and i really don’t want to again if I don’t have to but i just wanna make sure I’m not damaging it…ill be getting some olive oil tmw so I can seal which I know my hair needs is there any other reason why my hair is stiff ?? I trim pretty often and my ends are okay I’m jus worried that my hair healthy but all I use is a leave in so maybe I need more products…I could really use some feedback thanks so much :) oh and yu have gorgeous hair by the way :)
Thanks Amoni! Spritz a little water on your hair before you reapply the Cantu leave-in. If you apply it directly to dry hair for a long period of time it will become stiff. Also, if you add the olive oil like you mentioned this should fix the problem.
Hey chime my name is abby and i was wondering if you can help me with my hair issues. My hair is very thick 4a/4b/3c. No matter how much i moisturize my hair i get single strand knots i know it pretty my comes with being natural. But detangling is a nightmare no matter how much conditioner i have before/ after i wash its still hard to braid my hair. I even cut 4 inches thinking that will help. Should i cut more off or do ii switch up my regimen.
I wouldn’t cut more if I were you. If detangling is a big issue due to your texture, you may want to braid your hair loosely then wash your hair. You can make one braid per section or two. Your hair won’t get tangled as much when you wash your hair when it is braided. It will still get clean. Single strand knots are just a part of the game lol You can cut down on getting them by limiting how often you wear your hair “out”. When our hair is wild and free it twists and turns and creates those fairy knots.
Thanks for the advice Chime. I do notice that i have split ends but they are minimum so ill switch my trimming schedule to every 3 months and get my moisture balance. Does this sounds great?… By the way love the blog keep doing your thing. I think you are a very beautiful person teaching us sista’s how to love our hair : )
I forgot to ask do you know of a really good leave in that will moisturize my hair for days?
Natural hair can be so dry that you usually have to reapply products daily. Nothing I’ve tried will moisturize my hair for days without reapplication.
Hello Chime. My name is Tory and I was wondering if you would be able to give me some insight on a hair issue im having. Ive been relaxer free for a year and some change lol and fully natural for a few months (cut off all of my relaxed ends). I have a looser curl pattern in the front of my head and kinkier pattern in the back. but recently I got it straightened and now it seems as though my hair wont bounce back. my twist outs dont look or feel the same. Some of my ends wont hold a curl so most of the time I have to rock a curly fro #jackson 5 by wetting my hair down with a spray bottle and applying shea moistures curl enhancing smoothie because thats the only way it will curl now. Im almost positive I have heat damage but I was wondering could it be something else? I love wearing my fro but I dont want to apply water everytime I style. How can I repair heat damage if I have it? and what styles can I do so my ends can hold a curl?
Hey Tory! Most likely it is heat damage:( The only way to get rid of it is by cutting it out. You can gradually snip the ends each month until it is all gone. Bantu knot outs and pin curls are good styles that will give your ends a curl.
Thank you so much for your advice Chime. Turns out the damage wasnt so bad, but Im definitely going to be more careful and stay away from the heat. Lol. B.t.w keep up the good work. Love the blog and your youtube videos. I tune in everytime you post a new one.
I know that was a relief. Thank so much for your positivity and support!
inorder to keep my tresses well moisturized, every 2-3 days i section my hair 12 sections, then i mist my hair w/a mixture of aloe vera juice, h20 and vegetable glycerine. then i seal it with olive oil. it is the only thing that has consistently worked for me :)
Thanks for sharing! You definitely have to find what works specifically for you!
On the “double your moisture intake” part of it, try steaming! I bought a steamer off ebay for 85 bucks and I LOVE it. I steam my hair once a week, and for double the time whenever I deep condition. There has been a tremendous change in the short time that I’ve been steaming.
I can’t stop stroking my hair. :)